Taxi Drivers

Can be very interesting people. I'm sure you won't often find a cab driver without some kind of story to tell or experience to share--with all those people he or she sees in a day, there are bound to be some great conversations.

Ghanaian taxi drivers are no different. Over these past couple years I've been regaled with drivers' stories and opinions on many issues: Ghanaian politics, Barack Obama, whether it is just to hit a street hawker with your car (and the economic implications), China in Africa, taxation, whether Chelsea is better than Manchester United, what qualities--loosely interpreted--one should look for in a wife. And so forth. Some conversations can be difficult as their English might not be up to snuff, but listening is nonetheless entertaining.

Conversations always start the same way:

Driver: So where are you from?

Me: The US.

Driver: [after a few moments' silence] But you look ... so ... what is it ... uhh ... like a Korean?

Me: Oh, my family is from Asia. But I am from the US.

Driver: [more silence, eyeing me carefully] Are you quite sure?

Me: More or less.

Today's cab drivers happened to be entrepreneurs. That's another thing about taxis in Ghana: drivers often drive as a second, even third, job. My driver in the morning was saving money to start his own business. He wants to sell neckties. Something that often comes up in conversations with drivers is how safe, peaceful, stable Ghana is. For him, this meant opportunity--an opportunity to have his own business and send his kids to a good school. Driving a cab was how he would save for this enterprise. Enterprise. A very good word because that's what most 'businesses' are called here: enterprises. Indicative of a can-do, creative spirit. For this driver, this enterprise was being saved for day-by-day, one pesewa at a time towards a goal of three thousand cedis. He hopes to have enough saved within a year, at which point he'll sell his car and start selling his neckties.

My second driver today after our typical "you're-from-the-US-but-you-look-so-uhhh-Korean" (are you quite sure?) icebreaker informed me that when he was not driving he worked for the World Bank and drove Americans around all the time. He told me he loved working for the Bank--unlike working for a typical large Ghanaian firm, he felt that he was treated with more respect. For those who have not been here, a lot of firms operate very hierarchically--lots of bringing coffee, "yes, sir; no, sir", etc. with little respect. But he loved meeting people from various Bank countries, learning more about foreigners. He even knew a lot about the institution's substantive work, and we talked for a while about that and what it meant for Ghana. For him, driving a cab provided a nice second income, but I think he truly cherished the opportunity to meet new people.

I've often said that tro-tros provide a great way to learn about Ghanaian society and meet interesting people, but the same is true for Ghanaian taxis. You never really know what will come out in conversation, whether the driver will be passive or aggressive, whether his opinions will strongly conflict with your own. Once in a while, you will have a gem of a conversation that's worth remembering. It's all a learning experience. And, yes, I am quite sure.