Now that's what I call an express lane

Today was fairly productive, as I was able to set up appointments with a sociology professor and arrange to go to the Statistical Service to pick up some reports from the previous census. Two birds with one phone. Sadly much of the stuff at the Statistical Service is hard-copy or non-existent, so I'll have to figure something out.

I also had my first tro-tro rides today in 2 weeks, since most things in Takoradi were walking distance or not accessible by tro-tro (i.e. the port area). As always, the tro-tro ride was an adventure/near-death experience. I happened to catch the tro-tro from Accra back to Legon during the afternoon rush hour, which also happens to be shopping time for many Ghanaians.

This is Wal-Mart: West African style.

Because of the rush-hour traffic, the hawkers are out in force. Today I saw someone in my tro-tro buy a 12-pack of toilet paper (it was 4 3-packs) from a guy who was carrying probably 144 rolls on him. Of course, payment is always a tricky issue when you're buying from a moving passenger van (or excuse for a van). And this lady had only a 5-cedi note. Now in Ghana, when you don't have close-enough change, it's your fault. The vendors get mad. And toilet-paper man was pissed. Most vendors don't like making too much change (come on, guys, it's not Zimbabwe), but this guy obliged, which involved digging through his pockets while chasing after our tro-tro. When a street vendor is really in trouble, they have to drop their stuff in the middle of the road and sprint after the tro-tro. If they don't catch up, that's too bad. But this dude was rather swift, and was able to make change after about a kilometer.

No such thing as free toilet paper.

There was also a mother and young baby seated in front of me, and they were able to buy a rattle during the ride. You can also get all sorts of food: dried plantains, Ghanaian chocolate bars (soooooo good), virility-enhancing peanuts and frozen yoghurt of questionable mettle. I'm pretty sure you can also get a whole cowboy outfit in just one trip into Accra. I've seen leather wallets, belts and cowboy hats (with US flag pins, huzzah!) being sold to passing cars. Yeehaw.